RRR

zuke

Member 2022
VA4WD
So had a long chat with Filthy motorsports...the largest king shock distributor in the country....

Next step for the Red Jeep is some new shocks... question is 2.5 or 3.0?

Rear will be frenched in 14 inch travel
Fronts will remain 12 inch travel due to suspension limitations.

Need to stop hanging with @Galactica

He's gonna spoil you ;)

You know I tend to go the route of not much more than needed to accomplish the goal, I'm gonna say to go the 2.5s to allow more space around them. If you think you might suddenly decide to go bombing across the desert, or doing rock bouncing then the 3.0 makes more sense, but for the Rock Crawling we're doing around here, the 2.5 oughta be plenty....

Of course, Red Jeep is a pretty hefty girl.... Maybe you do need the 3.0s :D
 
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SteadfastRanger

Member 2022
Is there merit to mix them?
2.5” front,
3” rear.

Seems you carry a lot of gear, hence added weight, in the back. And not sure if you’re still pulling that little offroad trailer on occasion.

If you revised the front suspension/ clearance issues down the line, you could then go 3” to match.
 

R3

Member 2022
He's gonna spoil you ;)

You know I tend to go the route of not much more than needed to accomplish the goal, I'm gonna say to go the 2.5s to allow more space around them. If you think you might suddenly decide to go bombing across the desert, or doing rock bouncing then the 3.0 makes more sense, but for the Rock Crawling we're doing around here, the 2.5 oughta be plenty....

Of course, Red Jeep is a pretty hefty girl.... Maybe you do need the 3.0s :D
So, I agree with your points. Shock size is all about oil volume. Volume equals less fad and more consistent performance..
Fit is also an issue. In the rear no brainier french in a set of towers. Front has restrictions that can be adjusted with a plasma torch. .

Plus Red Jeep 1.0 was #6100 in battle trim...
Remove two D44 and add two D60... I'm thinking +600# + another 70# in tires.. so my estimates for 2.0 are close, #6800+ with the other weight reduction I have done.

2.0 kings max recommend weight is 5500
2.5 will fit the range of #6500.
3.0 have significantly larger oil volume... May be too much for road manners longer warm up time and maybe softer valving.

Will have another conversation with Filthy motorsports Friday and make a decision. 3-5 month wait.. with hammers coming in Jan and the holidays nearing... Thinking it will be closer to 5...

Spring time mods? Give a bit of time to work out the trans swap.
 
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R3

Member 2022
Is there merit to mix them?
2.5” front,
3” rear.

Seems you carry a lot of gear, hence added weight, in the back. And not sure if you’re still pulling that little offroad trailer on occasion.

If you revised the front suspension/ clearance issues down the line, you could then go 3” to match.
The trailer is just dynamic weight. Tongue weight static is just 50# loaded... Dynamic it could be as much as 150#. The shock.size equates to oil volume. Larger the volume the cooler the oil stays. Operating temp is around 200 degrees. I was surprised to learn that. So with a larger volume it will take longer to get to operating temp. So there is a balance to take into account. This is not an all out race rig nor will it be.

Weight carrying is accomplished with spring weights. Lighter upper for road manners with a heavier load spring for bigger oscillations. The trick is to match the spring rated and use adjustable dampening to deal with more dynamic loading. I do this now are it works pretty well

So likely a 12 stroke 2.5 up front and 14 inch stroke 2.5 rear both with remote reservoirs and compression adjusters.

Some body cutting will be involved but I might be able to use @Galactica s rig to pattern the enclosures.
 

R3

Member 2022
Red Jeep 1.0 weights ..
Take away 100 for the steel rear bumper and tire carrier... I am closer to #6650 as it sits
 

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R3

Member 2022
Another winter project is the flat floor or more commonly called rear seat delete. Current set up I have little storage useful storage space and heavy items find their way to the rear. The idea here is to optimize space I have and provide more useful storage space and ready access to things I really need. It is no surprise that if you have more space you tend to fill it up. In this case I am looking to comb thru the stuff I carry and have a place for the stuff I need and room for option gear.

Part of the design will move the fridge forward to behind the passenger seat with storage in and around the cooler. Drive side will have storage for recovery gear and chainsaw (electric. Thinking of building that storage into the floor with a plastic tray to catch the bar oil that will leak maybe provisions for a charger as well. Heavy gear like the Farm jack can be moved forward to behind the front seats to move weight to a more central location.
Fridge placement will be the key as it will still have to slide out I think, test fitting will determine the final design. If the slide option is not required then more usable space is available.

Construction material, thinking Marine grade lumber (star board) a plastic material that save on weight and is stupid easy to work with and water proof. Down side is it is a bit expensive and requires a mechanical connection. Options include wood and light weight steel or aluminum, Aluminum is running a strong second at this point. Just worried about the sound of sheet metal in the back of the rig driving me nutz.

Any of you Overlander guys lurking out there shoot me your thoughts...
 

mopar31898

Member 2022
Another winter project is the flat floor or more commonly called rear seat delete. Current set up I have little storage useful storage space and heavy items find their way to the rear. The idea here is to optimize space I have and provide more useful storage space and ready access to things I really need. It is no surprise that if you have more space you tend to fill it up. In this case I am looking to comb thru the stuff I carry and have a place for the stuff I need and room for option gear.

Part of the design will move the fridge forward to behind the passenger seat with storage in and around the cooler. Drive side will have storage for recovery gear and chainsaw (electric. Thinking of building that storage into the floor with a plastic tray to catch the bar oil that will leak maybe provisions for a charger as well. Heavy gear like the Farm jack can be moved forward to behind the front seats to move weight to a more central location.
Fridge placement will be the key as it will still have to slide out I think, test fitting will determine the final design. If the slide option is not required then more usable space is available.

Construction material, thinking Marine grade lumber (star board) a plastic material that save on weight and is stupid easy to work with and water proof. Down side is it is a bit expensive and requires a mechanical connection. Options include wood and light weight steel or aluminum, Aluminum is running a strong second at this point. Just worried about the sound of sheet metal in the back of the rig driving me nutz.

Any of you Overlander guys lurking out there shoot me your thoughts...
If you are looking to build yourself, take a look at goose gear and adapt their platform idea for what you want.
 

R3

Member 2022
If you are looking to build yourself, take a look at goose gear and adapt their platform idea for what you want.
Looked at a lot of high dollar stuff... I have some ideas like a pocket for the electric chainsaw, fridge mount wit drawler... Place for the high lift. As well as the recovery gear.

I don't see any options like that is the high dollar premade stuff. Figure I can do it all for $200-300 bucks. Beats $600-$1000+
 

JustOnlyME

Member 2022
Blue Ribbon Coalition
VA4WD
for weight savings you could look into Alucore panels. not sure if they would work in this application though.
 
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mopar31898

Member 2022
Looked at a lot of high dollar stuff... I have some ideas like a pocket for the electric chainsaw, fridge mount wit drawler... Place for the high lift. As well as the recovery gear.

I don't see any options like that is the high dollar premade stuff. Figure I can do it all for $200-300 bucks. Beats $600-$1000+
Sorry, should have said that better. Look at their design, use what you like in your design, then add what you need specifically need. Yours will likely be cheaper and turn out way better. Also, it will be custom to what you need.

I'm excited to see how this project turns out.
 

R3

Member 2022
Sorry, should have said that better. Look at their design, use what you like in your design, then add what you need specifically need. Yours will likely be cheaper and turn out way better. Also, it will be custom to what you need.

I'm excited to see how this project turns out.
Project list is growing...
1) 8 speeder...that should be interesting.
2) 2.5 kings.....Filthy motorsports and have been talking.... excited to see how that one comes out. Going to be some cutting and welding involved. Additional fabrication of some interior panel to cover the shocks
3) rear seat delete....going to try moulding plastic for the chainsaw pocket...design is still fluid right now. Thinking a molles panel between the rear seat back location and the back compartment.

This the season right?
 
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3VOLVE

Member 2022
Looked at a lot of high dollar stuff... I have some ideas like a pocket for the electric chainsaw, fridge mount wit drawler... Place for the high lift. As well as the recovery gear.

I don't see any options like that is the high dollar premade stuff. Figure I can do it all for $200-300 bucks. Beats $600-$1000+

there are a bunch of YouTube videos showing folks are easily creating their own “goose-gear like” flooring for the back of their Jeeps. There is a beauty of making the templates to fit your needs for a quarter of the price (not including time).
7cd9a7bd-9fdd-42c1-926b-1fb02cd40013-jpeg.500124

d9bb3e13-6556-4ce9-aaf6-9753014fc331-jpeg.500125
 
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R3

Member 2022
there are a bunch of YouTube videos showing folks are easily creating their own “goose-gear like” flooring for the back of their Jeeps. The is beauty of making the templates to fit your needs for a quarter of the price (not including time).
7cd9a7bd-9fdd-42c1-926b-1fb02cd40013-jpeg.500124

d9bb3e13-6556-4ce9-aaf6-9753014fc331-jpeg.500125
Thank you. Been looking and scheming/designing. Like the idea of Starboard...marine plastic lumber....been looking at Luan and glass as well.
 

3VOLVE

Member 2022
Thank you. Been looking and scheming/designing. Like the idea of Starboard...marine plastic lumber....been looking at Luan and glass as well.

Starboard would be an excellent material to use as easy to work with and easy to clean.
 
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R3

Member 2022
there are a bunch of YouTube videos showing folks are easily creating their own “goose-gear like” flooring for the back of their Jeeps. There is a beauty of making the templates to fit your needs for a quarter of the price (not including time).
7cd9a7bd-9fdd-42c1-926b-1fb02cd40013-jpeg.500124

d9bb3e13-6556-4ce9-aaf6-9753014fc331-jpeg.500125
So looking at this design, I don't need a covering for the rear compartment. Want to optimize the rear seat area to hold a ARB fridge, 55" highlift jack, recovery gear, cooking gear and a chain saw. This brings the weight forward to the center of the rig rather than the rear. The rear compartment will now be a luggage or extra stuff place. Want to use all the space below the "deck" as well as the deck itself. Need some CAD time to design ( Carboard Aided Design) to get things close and experiment with a heat gun or torch and plastic molding.
 
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