Gears and axles

Mikeyswillys

Member 2022
So I know I have brought this up before but I am still in the same predicament I was 2 months ago. I need a new carrier in my rear Dana 44. My front 30 needs new ball joints, U joints all around and inner axle seals.

I am trying to make my jeep strong enough to install 37” tires with confidence.

I have been back and forth with multiple shops and can’t seem to figure out what to do. I am at a point where I need to spend a lot of money and I can’t decide how much I throw at 9 year old stuff.

A new fusion front axle and regear the rear axle new shafts and a locker. new front and rear drive shafts will cost me upwards of 15k.

Fusion 40/60 with a semi float rear 60 cost me 14k and that includes a complete front axle with rcv minus brakes with 40 spline rear axle runs about 13,9 before shipping.

I have mixed reviews on the semi float rear. Fusion says bent flanges are the weak point but they warranty them if they bend.

Dynatrac has an option like fusion but it only cost $11k but it uses a high pinion system. From what I can read most people say to stay away from them. The reviews on their page are all 5 stars.

If I go with 60s that’s like 17k and another 5k for wheels and tires. That would take me another year of saving and not wheeling my jeep at all.

Does anyone know anyone that runs a semi float rear? Do they love or hate it? At this point I’m months away from any solution and could use some input. What would you do?


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R3

Member 2022
Check with East Coast Gear Supply... My pair of 60s with steering and rcvs was 15k shipped.

Full float vs semi. Run 4140 or4340 semi float axles. Banged on mine pretty hard no bends. Down side to service bearing is a pain.

Full float... Bit heavier. Front can be a king pin design or Ball joints. Bearings are easily serviced.

How are you going to run your jeep? Hard full send? D60 full float.

More careful approach.. look at 489 with 4 inch tubes. Lighter and cheaper.

Recommend 4140 rear axles if you go flanged.

D44S will fold up fine with 37s. And remember you can break anything driving stupid.
 

zuke

Member 2022
VA4WD
So, Since you asked what I would do, Let me preface this, I like working on them, I Don't sweat breaking things much, and am sort of a quantity vs quality guy, as you can tell by my signature.... I don't carry spare parts, I keep spare Jeeps...

So, Faced with your situation, My first choice would be to find a pair of Used Rubicon D44's These can be found in the $4000 to $6000 dollar range, already have lockers, will likely have other upgrades already, and can run 37" tires without major problems.

I'd put an Artec Apex Truss and Gussets on the front axle, and new ball joints (Dynatrac Pro-Steer if it's in the Budget) Good Chromoly shafts with Spicer non greaseable joints, and plan on replacing them every two years before they have a chance to fail.

In the rear I'd run the Rubi axle as is, only replacing the seals and outer bearings. I'd wait for the axles in it to break before replacing one.

Since we're talking about replacing your current axles, and not doing a re-gear, you don't really have to use a shop, as long as you have a bit of space to work on just an axle. Once the axles are done, you might be able to find a wrenching party to help put them in.

All told, you should be able to complete this upgrade for less than $9,000, even if you have a shop weld the truss on for you.

This is probably very different advice than others are going to give you, and there's nothing wrong with that, Major axle upgrades will come with more reliability and capability, and what I'm suggesting is pretty much the minimum to run 37's with confidence, If you look under the Blue Sahara JKU my wife wheels, You'll see this is almost the exact route I've taken it down.
 

R3

Member 2022
A good pair of Rubi take offs are a great option. Fast and easy swap. Budget friendly and will be great for 37s.
Check the classifieds 1 ton jeep forums etc. Stock they are 4.10.... for 37s I'd recommend 4.88 to 5.13.
Throw on a big brake kit and you off to the rocks.
 

OneArmedSaint

Member 2022
Facebook marketplace. Rubicon axles, built $5,250.

pasted from ad:
Condition: Used but 100% working Jeep JL Rubicon M210/M220 (Dana 44’s) with 4.88 Yukon Gears, RCV axle shafts, Teraflex big brake kit with e-Lockers and FAD delete for sale. Both axles work fine and have no issues. Came out of a Jeep JL Rubicon. Will not work in Jeep Gladiator unless you change the rear link mounts. Can supply a set of brand new Adam’s Driveshafts for the front and rear at retail cost if interested. Located in Haymarket, VA. Cash ONLY. No Trades.

 
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zuke

Member 2022
VA4WD
Those axles Joe just found would be an excellent choice! The JL axles are somewhat beefier than the JK, And those already have the upgrades you'd want to put in later anyway!

There are a few challenges to putting those under a JK, but they aren't huge challenges.

Rear shock mounts have to be moved outward, as the JL shocks are inboard of the frame and the JK is outboard, Could cut and relocate the existing mounts, or weld new ones on/cut old ones off, I'd opt for the latter.

The rear Pinion Flange is different, Front maybe too, though I'm not sure of that one. I'd opt for calling Adam's and ordering new driveshafts with the correct yokes anyway. (The Driveshafts the seller is offering won't work for your application, so don't buy those)

Rear wheel speed sensors are different, I've read that you can drill the current sensor hole out larger and fit JK sensors in them, But I'd want to research that more before drilling.
 

spnkzyj

Member 2022
Just another data point, I just had an ECGS (can't say enough good things about the company) Dana 489 rear show up for my YJ. Installing it Sunday with any luck.

Dana 489 is a JK Dana 44 with ECGS housing. 8.9" ring. The housing has 3.5" tubes that are 3/8" thick. ECGS told me 37s with ~350hp would be no issue for it.

Dana 489, 35 spline shafts, Ox Locker Electric Shift, Set 10 disc brakes. Setup for my rig. extra set of UBolts. Delivered $4200.

I've always personally reserved Dana 60s for 40s and/or big horsepower. Disadvantages in clearance and weight over other things.
 

Mikeyswillys

Member 2022
Thank you to everyone for your input. I have been contemplating taking an axle off one at a time and carrying it up to my porch to work on it where it’s flat. The longer I thought on it the less appealing it became with winter on the horizon.

So I had a quote built for these Facebook axles a month ago i am going to just go with the JL 44s.


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R3

Member 2022
Those axles Joe just found would be an excellent choice! The JL axles are somewhat beefier than the JK, And those already have the upgrades you'd want to put in later anyway!

There are a few challenges to putting those under a JK, but they aren't huge challenges.

Rear shock mounts have to be moved outward, as the JL shocks are inboard of the frame and the JK is outboard, Could cut and relocate the existing mounts, or weld new ones on/cut old ones off, I'd opt for the latter.

The rear Pinion Flange is different, Front maybe too, though I'm not sure of that one. I'd opt for calling Adam's and ordering new driveshafts with the correct yokes anyway. (The Driveshafts the seller is offering won't work for your application, so don't buy those)

Rear wheel speed sensors are different, I've read that you can drill the current sensor hole out larger and fit JK sensors in them, But I'd want to research that more before drilling.
Why would you have to drill out, why not use the sensor that is there and wire into the proper JK connector?
 

Mikeyswillys

Member 2022
Does anyone want the 30 and 44 that’s coming off? I may have a brand new cavfab 7075 tie rod and drag link available soon also if anyone is interested.


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zuke

Member 2022
VA4WD
Why would you have to drill out, why not use the sensor that is there and wire into the proper JK connector?

From what I'm reading, the JL one pulses at half the rate, or some silly nonsense like that...
 
Good details on JK :: JL axle wheel speed sensors, likely what Zuke was mentioning
 

R3

Member 2022
@Mikeyswillys Had a great chat with Paul at ECGS on you axle woes. 75 day lead on a 44/60 semi float combo for ~$11K with lockers and RCVs.

the combo he was talking about allow you to use you current wheels. you can upgrade the brakes if you want or run the current set up. If you need a Brake booster I have one new in the box.

Cheers
Rob.
 

Mikeyswillys

Member 2022
Thanks for all your assistance rob. I will have a set of ECGS 44/60 axles to install in about 75 days! Paul and ECGS are a pleasure to work with.


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