What did you do to your Jeep today? - June 2025

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Well, what I thought was going to be an easy fix just escalated.

I was able to get the actuator linkage off fairly easily. While I was inspecting the waste gate lever on the turbo I realized part of the linkage was still attached to the stud on the level. When I touched it, the stud broke off the lever. This means I am now going to have to pull the turbo and see if I can rebuild it myself or if I need to take it to a shop for a rebuild. Unfortunately I have no idea how long this will take and may sideline me for summer wheeling.

If you look in the picture you can almost see where the stud is on the left hand side amongst all the rust.

View attachment 10777
What brand of turbo is it? I have done a few of these in the past the work is not hard just need to find parts for the particular application.
 
Well, what I thought was going to be an easy fix just escalated.

I was able to get the actuator linkage off fairly easily. While I was inspecting the waste gate lever on the turbo I realized part of the linkage was still attached to the stud on the level. When I touched it, the stud broke off the lever. This means I am now going to have to pull the turbo and see if I can rebuild it myself or if I need to take it to a shop for a rebuild. Unfortunately I have no idea how long this will take and may sideline me for summer wheeling.

If you look in the picture you can almost see where the stud is on the left hand side amongst all the rust.

View attachment 10777
What brand of Turbo it it? Do you know the size? You can try reach out to Industrial Injection to see if they can help and possibly rebuild you turbo. I have had them rebuild a few of my turbos on Big diesel rigs. the other option is to manufacture the lever. Looks like it should be an easy fix. If you have it off new bearings and seals would be worth the investment. Or if you know the size look at a replacement from Garrett.

 
In my effort to be like the cool kids (Joe P @3VOLVE ), I finally added the 40 percent side to the rear seat delete. Now it's all platform space. Even more ready for "Pee Wee's Big West Adventure". :cool:
40delete2.jpeg
 
What brand of Turbo it it? Do you know the size? You can try reach out to Industrial Injection to see if they can help and possibly rebuild you turbo. I have had them rebuild a few of my turbos on Big diesel rigs. the other option is to manufacture the lever. Looks like it should be an easy fix. If you have it off new bearings and seals would be worth the investment. Or if you know the size look at a replacement from Garrett.

Rob,

Thanks for all the input. I know it is a Garret but I'm going to reach out to Banks to get the specifics. Once I have more info, and can research a little more, I will decide if I want to attempt the rebuild myself or have a professional do it.

If I go at it myself, I will reach out for some help and advice since it sounds like you have a lot of knowledge.

Next step is to get more info and begin the process of pulling it off.
 
Been reading a bit on this. Banks put a lot of money into developingthe kit. I hope now that they do not support it anymore they offer up some help.

Housings have numebrs on them. This will help track down parts and identify the hot side size . This is where your wategate is located. Might be worth calling Garret and seeing if they can point you in a direction for parts and shops.

PS how old is your turbo? It might be worth a full rebuild. Warning parts are going to be expensive due to the percision manufactuing process. There might be a full replacment available through the manufacturer.
 
Been reading a bit on this. Banks put a lot of money into developingthe kit. I hope now that they do not support it anymore they offer up some help.

Housings have numebrs on them. This will help track down parts and identify the hot side size . This is where your wategate is located. Might be worth calling Garret and seeing if they can point you in a direction for parts and shops.

PS how old is your turbo? It might be worth a full rebuild. Warning parts are going to be expensive due to the percision manufactuing process. There might be a full replacment available through the manufacturer.
Thanks for the input Rob.

It has been on for about ten or so years but probably only had about 15,000 miles on it. When I was initially was tracking down the noise, I did a quick check on a few things. The shaft seems to be solid and there was no oil in the housing. I’ll take a closer look when I get it out. Now I just need to find time to start pulling it out.
 
I fixed my broker sun visor. The end of the stock pivot point is known to break. Many people will put a bracket over the rod of hold it in. I went the more discreet route of using a metal clip on the back side.

The how to I followed: Sun visor fix

Broken (the swivel point flops out)
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The broken clip on the back side:
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The next clip after grinding the plastic mount down to fit:
IMG_0305.jpeg


All fixed:
IMG_0306.jpeg
 
Installed a new dual band radio Yaesu FTM500DR. All hooked up and tested. Hit the FBurg repeated from Dahlgren loud and clear. All ready for Potts this week.
Great radio if I was huge into yaesu digital mode I'd be running that but been a dstar person so I'm on my icom 4100 and icom 5100. What jeep do you have it installed in and would you be willing to share pictures of your install trying to figure out my antenna setup on the TJ so looking for ideas
 
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