What did you do to your Jeep today? - June 2025
- Thread starter Jeep Freak
- Start date
voodoocharlie
Member 2025
Well I'll be the first to post for this month I'm driving the TJ to go drop off wifes Toyota at the shop for state inspection. I got a cel. Limped home the whole 6 miles feeling it misfire. Pulled into driveway grabbed my scanner and saw 301 misfire on cylinder one so I felt the injectors and it didn't feel like injector one was clicking so I pulled the injectors swapped 1 and 2, 3 and 4, and 5 and 6. Restarted the jeep and boom code 302 misfire on cylinder 2 cleared codes and swapped injectors with my cheap china backups and started it up I could feel the injectors clicking went run up to the not shell to fill up and no misfire. I'll be contacting k suspension as this is the second injector with issues from this batch/order. And I only installed them less than a month ago less than 400 miles ago
A few days late, but CONGRATS @CranCherokee on your engagement!!!!
Wasted 2 hours installing a forward facing camera on my Scrambler that shows up on my carplay unit. As I was done testing and pulled the jack for the camera out of the unit to put it away in the glove box, the tip of the jack broke off and now when I plug it in, it does not register as having the camera. Boo. Hiss. Oh well. The image was flipped anyway. It was intended to be a back up camera. Back to having no camera at all.
The flipped image is usually fixed by sniping a wire. Here are the instructions I had for my front camera.
so this was actually yesterday, but i went to replace my thermostat in an attempt to chase down why my engine fan runs continuously on high once the engine gets to temp and my temp gauge has been bouncing around and found this:
Mouse nest and the little jerk gnawed the sheathing off several wires including leaving one wire with 2-2.5" of wire exposed. don't know what i can really do other than replace the harness which will be obscenely expensive.
Mouse nest and the little jerk gnawed the sheathing off several wires including leaving one wire with 2-2.5" of wire exposed. don't know what i can really do other than replace the harness which will be obscenely expensive.
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You could repin the whole connector. It will take a while and you may need to buy the tool to open the connector up to get the old wired out. Time is money. And that isa lot of wires to splice and repin. Sorry to hear you have to deal with it. But glad you found it jow before the fire.
I had thought about re-pinning, but in addition to it being a lot of wires to do, trying to do it with the harness on the Jeep would make it that much more difficult. also, there are a few wires on the female side of the connection that were also damaged, which would be harder to reach. very glad I didn't have a fire.
The cheapest way to go is re-pin the damaged wires. Yes it is a PITA, Yes it will Take a lot of time. If the one side is a short easily removable harness replacement is an option. generally these things go all over the engine bay. To Boot you electrical architecture is CanBus. That system is finicky about resistance.
I had a similar problem in the JK. the little bastards eat up the #3 injector wiring. I went the harness route to fix. Then I added a Mouse Blocker device to ward off the little guys. I have on in each car and a area one in the garage. So Far no little critters are making a home out of my rigs or garage.
I had a similar problem in the JK. the little bastards eat up the #3 injector wiring. I went the harness route to fix. Then I added a Mouse Blocker device to ward off the little guys. I have on in each car and a area one in the garage. So Far no little critters are making a home out of my rigs or garage.
CranCherokee
Member 2025
Looking to upgrade axles on the TJ, found something on Marketplace but can someone confirm if this is a good deal?
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Rob,
I use these guys. I have one in each rig and a area one in the garage.
mouseblocker.com
I use these guys. I have one in each rig and a area one in the garage.
Mouse Blocker – Protecting your vehicle
mouseblocker.com
Price is a bit steep.Looking to upgrade axles on the TJ, found something on Marketplace but can someone confirm if this is a good deal?
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All axles have Chrome Moly what is the heat treat 4150, 4350.... unless they have a receipt I would think there are stock
Big question is why are they selling? upgrade to D60s? Parting out a rig? Rollover, check for bent housings.
RCVs usually last a life time as long as they are serviced.
The fact that the rear still has Drums makes me think it is all stock.
CranCherokee
Member 2025
Thanks for the input Rob, unless he’s upgrading not sure why the owner is parting out. Seems like well-built axles. Will ask those questions you suggested.
Follow up to the price comment. What would you pay if you were buying? I don’t want to be disrespectful with a low ball but have no idea what these upgrades cost
CranCherokee
Member 2025
Seller said he bought tons off someone else who had rolled their rig which is why he’s selling but no bends
mopar31898
Member 2025
I agree with Robs comments and I think you might need a little more info before making an offer.
First, it does look like aftermarket rear shafts based on the logo but can't be sure. I would ask which ARB it has in the rear. I believe they make a 30, a 33 and a 35 spline version. 30 is stock so if it is 33 or 35 then it would be aftermarket.
Second, it likely has drums on it because the conversion kit is insanely expensive. When I built the D44 on my TJ, it had drum brakes. At the time, I was more interested in buying a locker and high quality axle shafts than spending 1k on a disc brake conversion.
Third, the front looks fairly solid with the truss and assuming 35 spline locker and axles, it should be fairly solid. One thing to remember with the TJ front D44 is that the only thing that makes it a D44 is the center section. The rest of the axle is the same as a D30 from a TJ. The truss and the axles should help to eliminate some of those weaknesses. Also, I am not as familiar with the RCV shafts but a common thing with aftermarket D44 shafts for a TJ is that the inners can have extra splines but the outers retain the stock splines. It would be something with looking at.
I think once you get more info, that should allow you to make a better offer.
Also, what tire size do you plan on running and what trans do you have? Will the gearing be optimal for your final set up?
Just my two cents.
CranCherokee
Member 2025
Appreciate the feedback as well and I followed up with him on those questions. I do know based on the listing, the front and rear have ARB lockers.
My goal is to run 37s (currently on 33s) and running the 32rh trans. I’m not experienced with gearing but to my knowledge I feel like 4.88s are good.
Again, still learning though so I appreciate yalls input
If it were me,
I would start with $3500 cash. with an extra $500 in pocket.
1) They are used. How many miles?
2) check the welding, if it looks like a row of dimes likely professionally done, if not likely back yard heat control can warp the tubes.
3) Rear axle Drums, nothing special and not new. Spin the axle shafts in the rear and check for flange bend (Wobble)
4) ARB's test them to see if they lock.
5) ball Joints check for play along with hubs (Unibearing? or wheel bearings not sure on a TJ)
6) Like Adam said , it is a D30 with a 44 center section.
7) Seals are a PITA to do. Front requires removing the carrier, rear axle shafts and bearings. Check for leaks or oil leaks.