Unl1mtds Wj

[unl1mtd]

Just to document the happenings, I will update this thread.

The driver's rear axle bearing was completely shot.  To my surprise the shade tree trick of jacking up each corner, spinning the tire while holding onto the spring absolutely allowed for me to pinpoint the corner with the issue.  I ended up having a shop to the work and elected to just replace the bearing, seal, and retainer vs the whole shaft.  I had a weird waste/reuse debate going on internally ...  Anyways according to the shop the bearings condition made removing the axle shaft extra difficult, no idea why.  But everything was done and she was rolling smooth, until I hit the brakes.  I had been chasing warped rotors (which I thought was on the front of the jeep), but ends up they were the rear rotors.  After the axle work for whatever reason it got hella bad, like violent.  So a quick replacement and things have been riding smooth for a couple weeks now.  *knocks on wood*

 

[unl1mtd]

32 days without my primary set of keys.  I'm beginning to think that I'm not going to find them.

 

[unl1mtd]

Because why would I be able to get lucky? 

Now the passenger side rear axle seal has completely blown out. Back to the shop ...

 

[unl1mtd]

What a show

 

[jwilson2598]

Pretty sure if it blew out another seal you're probably going to want to replace the whole shaft this time.

 

[unl1mtd]

Pretty sure if it blew out another seal you're probably going to want to replace the whole shaft this time.

fingers crossed that's not the case as I just had the seal/bearing replaced.  It does feel good to drive it again after it being parked for awhile.

 

[unl1mtd]

Had a bit of play in the steering. The drag link ends both had some play in them, so easy enough to start there with a removal and replace. Not sure if the ones on there were original or not, but went with Moog replacements. A good bit more beef on the Moog ends plus greasable .

Interesting how each side had a stubborn bit but opposite elf each other. Passenger side popped right out of the knuckle but had no antisieze in the collar. Driver side spun right out of the collar but was a bear to bust free from the knuckle. Jobs done and the steering wheel is basically straight. After some more highway driving I might fine tune that a bit. Initial drive definitely was positive with not detected play remaining.

Also happy to have functioning hood struts again.

 

[unl1mtd]

Rereading the thread here, I realize there is a major gap in 2018.

First was in July in prep for Camp Heep, I but on the 2” spacers that's came with the Jeep. I had the shocks on already, but the PO has removed the spacers at some point. So the DubJ got boosted. This was in prep to do some light wheeling.

End result :

The rear suspension gave me all kinds of problems because the spacer wasn't a great fit on either the top or bottom. Ended up assembling and reassembling a couple times and settling on the top.

All that and ended up with a family thing preventing my attendance at Camp Heep. but did manage to go wheeling again in October with the club. All was well until low range in the transfer case gave up. No idea still to this day exactly what broke, but finished the ride in 4AWD and haven't fixed it yet.  So no more light wheeling. Happened on this climb from Meadow Knob to Flagpole.

To make the trip more eventful I got pulled over on the way home for a nonfunctional brake light. I knew of the problem and it was intermittent. Been putting this fix off,  but then had to replace the tail light assembly.

 

[unl1mtd]

I think for this summer the Jeep has one job, move the canoe.

 

[unl1mtd]

Been having issues with the inline tow wiring converter from 7 to 4 pin. So from the advise of the great Jeff Wilson swapped out the factory unit to an aftermarket with both options built in. And it's a factory OEM fit (sorta).

Factory unit unscrews, electrical unclips then reverse for new unit right? Not so fast it's a Jeep after all.

The wiring fits and passes a functional test hooked up to a set of lights. But because of the 4 pin built in there is a bulge and the backside of the unit isn't just circular. So cut out some metal, file smooth, paint.

Screw it in, not so fast. Factory threaded screws are too short. So have to drill out the existing holes for a screw and nut as provided with the kit. Hindsight I should have just retapped the holes. The nuts on the back are difficult to get on.

And there you have it, more than you ever wanted to know about this simple 20 minute strike that 1 hour install.

 

[Gr8Dain]

So what was the actual problem with the stock unit?

 

[unl1mtd]

So what was the actual problem with the stock unit?

Nothing. I just use the 4 pin wiring for my trailer so this allows me to not have to use a converter each time.

 

[Gr8Dain]

So what was the actual problem with the stock unit?

Nothing. I just use the 4 pin wiring for my trailer so this allows me to not have to use a converter each time.

Ah.  I get it.  I had one with the 4 Pin on the side on my POS F250.  Convenient. 

 

[unl1mtd]

Got over zealous cleaning snow and broke the passenger washer spray nozzle.

Come to find out the 98-04 WJ nozzles aren’t made anymore. Rather than futzing with guessing if a newer model one works. I went with a Help! Universal one from OReilys and called it a day. It’s much larger but adjustable which is nice.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[unl1mtd]

Sold! Good bye jeep hello Tundra.

 

[Ianste]

Nice. Was looking at one of those instead of my JL.