PSA to JL 2.0T owners for TSB on Overheating

blink9cd

Member 2024
Blue Ribbon Coalition
VA4WDA
As some of you know from the Camp Heep thread, I missed it due to my Jeep overheating on the way up :cry: That Friday I had made it about halfway up before having to stop. It's currently sitting in the shop at Criswell Jeep in Thurmont, MD; I'm picking it up tomorrow. They've been helpful, and so has Jeep Customer service, so this is not a thread to complain about either of them. It's more about so this doesn't happen to others...

Today they called me to let me know the root cause -- essentially incorrectly torqued bolts from the factory on the water pump :mad: Sorry if any of this is incorrect, but trying to summarize what I was told. Their explanation was that I have two coolants, low pressure (in the front of the vehicle) and high pressure (close to the firewall). Because of the loose bolts, I started to lose some coolant from the high pressure side, and when the heat/pressure got high enough it sucked in some air.

The worst part is this is a known issue for JLs with 2.0Ts and that it's been known since at least 2020. The newest TSB is "07-001-22 Rev. B, Apr 28, 2022, Cooling" on "Water Pump Inlet Tube Fastener Torque". This is the TSB PDF: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/attachments/07-001-22-rev-b-pdf.634359/.

If you go to this forum page, you can see a lot more people with this issue, including losing all their coolant at once, how they preemptively check for it, and what tools they use to fix it: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/2-0l-water-leak.84706/. It doesn't seem that hard overall.

A lot of people in the thread were around the 7000-10000 mile mark -- I had just hit 8000. The PSA is that the dealer told me that TSBs are not like recalls -- they only check for and fix them once your symptoms start. I also have no idea how to look up what TSBs apply to your vehicle, but I would've wanted to know about this before it happened. I got lucky and I was near a dealership, wasn't off-road at the time, didn't have the Jeep lose all the coolant and go into full limp mode. But I still missed a trip, had a really expensive uber back, lost a lot of time, etc.
 
A couple pictures of what it looked like from inside when something went wrong:


IMG_3793.jpg

IMG_3798.jpg
 
Glad to hear that an underlying cause was determined - and thanks for sharing the info for other 2.0T owners to be aware of. Hope to see you on the trails soon!
 
How is your cylinder head?
The dealer rep said no damage to the head gasket, no engine codes thrown related to overheating, and that day I never went into full on limp mode or lost all my coolant. He said they tightened the bolts, added coolant, and it passed a few engine tests and a test drive.

I don't actually have it back yet, but it seems like I might've gotten lucky compared to others that have had this happen.
 
The dealer rep said no damage to the head gasket, no engine codes thrown related to overheating, and that day I never went into full on limp mode or lost all my coolant. He said they tightened the bolts, added coolant, and it passed a few engine tests and a test drive.

I don't actually have it back yet, but it seems like I might've gotten lucky compared to others that have had this happen.
Well, that’s encouraging to hear….

still, I’d wait about 2,000 miles/2 months, and send a sample of coolant AND the (current) oil out for analysis to see if there‘s any meeting of the two anywhere. Sometimes warped cylinder heads or overheated gaskets take a while to manifest.

you can get the samples tested for lime $20 each. That’s cheap peace of mind.
 
I got the Jeep back today. Seems to drive pretty normally, no overheating on the long drive home. Temperatures were 195 or so when I checked idling in the parking lot. The dealership was pretty good overall -- service manager seemed like a real enthusiast and enjoyed talking with him.

Will have to assemble all my receipts and see what reimbursement I get back from Jeep Customer Care. They seem like they're willing to comp me for my rental car, ubers, maybe even my Camp Heep hotel night. Will see what happens there.
 
Well, that’s encouraging to hear….

still, I’d wait about 2,000 miles/2 months, and send a sample of coolant AND the (current) oil out for analysis to see if there‘s any meeting of the two anywhere. Sometimes warped cylinder heads or overheated gaskets take a while to manifest.

you can get the samples tested for lime $20 each. That’s cheap peace of mind.

How do you go about that? Never heard of that before
 
How do you go about that? Never heard of that before
How do you go about that? Never heard of that before
Blackstone Labs does engine oil analysis


coolant analysis here




Oil and coolant analysis is good for detecting even small cylinder head gasket leaks that don’t manifest as the typical “chocolate milk oil” or oily sheen under the radiator cap.

plus they can detect if you’ve got excessive corrosion by the different levels of metallic content in the fluid.

because SCIENCE! haha.
 
Blackstone Labs does engine oil analysis


coolant analysis here




Oil and coolant analysis is good for detecting even small cylinder head gasket leaks that don’t manifest as the typical “chocolate milk oil” or oily sheen under the radiator cap.

plus they can detect if you’ve got excessive corrosion by the different levels of metallic content in the fluid.

because SCIENCE! haha.
Ah cool thanks. I'll make a note to try this out, sounds like a good learning experience.

Let's say it comes back and there's some mixing. Is that conclusive enough to take to the dealer and be like "check this out, replace the head gasket" without a fight?
 
I can’t answer that. And that might be handled higher than the dealer level anyway, since it presumably affects thousands of vehicles.

But you can count for sure on two things:

1) the dealer and FCA wouldn’t mind at all if you didn’t do any further testing and just let this go, 😂 In fact, I’m certain that’s what they’d prefer you do!

2) when your warranty is up, it won’t matter then if the cylinder head starts leaking like a sieve. You’re paying for that then, regardless of when the overheat damage that precipitated the gasket failure occurred. The dealer would prefer to address it then, when you’ll be paying.
 
You definitely have some good points; I just have no real experience with dealers and warranties... my last car was a Mazda3 and it was rock solid for 7 years (never climbed any mountains though :ROFLMAO:). Luckily I'll still be well under warranty at that point of the test
 
Back
Top