Bull Run 4x4 Jeep shop says hello!

BullRun4x4

BullRun4x4

Hi folks, Mike the owner of Bull Run 4x4 out in Haymarket here! I just wanted to say Hi to everyone and let you know I'm available as a free resource for any Nova Jeeper as you're looking to build or upgrade your Jeep (even if you don't buy from us) in the future. I love educating consumers about Jeep upgrades and I can talk for hours about it. Just ask my wife. lol Also - Most of us shop owners are friendly with one another and refer business back and forth so if we can't do it, I'm always happy to refer folks to someone that can. I just referred someone over to Tom at Dirt Nerds today for a project that I just didn't have the resources to do internally at my shop for example.

We are also assembling our monthly wheeling trips for our customers so if you're a customer in our database, be sure to join our Bull Run 4x4 Offroad Club FB page (we do cross reference requests with our CRM to make sure you are in fact a customer) so you get invites to our trips on a monthly basis. If you're not a customer and want to come out with us... well you know what to do! We're happy to bring you into the Bull Run family.

I get a lot of questions about my personal Jeep so here's a few shots of it. It's a 2012 JKU Rubicon on one tons with a GenRight roll cage. I have a 40 spline SuperDuty 60 front axle with 1550 Branik u-joints and chromoly 40 spline (inner and outer) axle shafts and also a GM 14 Bolt rear axle that's been converted to 40 spline shafts with an ARB locker out back. PSC Big Bore with hydro assist handles turning those massive meats. It's sitting on 43" Mickey Thompson Baja Pro X sticky tires and Raceline Monster 233 beadlocks. I run Adams Driveshafts (1350/1410 combo) in it since we're an Adams dealer which have proven to be bulletproof. The lift is an EVO MFG high clearance long-arm kit with Metalcloak 5.5" springs with their Rocksport shocks using Summit Machine 2.25" aluminum lower links that are straight beef. The plan is to upgrade to King coilovers this summer when I do my 6.2 LS swap. It has Poison Spyder tube fenders that are paint matched along with their rock sliders and MetalCloak Undercloak skids. It will tackle just about anything I throw at it.

Anyway, feel free to ping me if you have any questions about your build or are just looking for guidance or ideas. I'm always happy to talk Jeeps no matter what time of day it is!

Hope to meet some more Nova Jeepers soon!

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BullRun4x4 said:
Hi folks, Mike the owner of Bull Run 4x4 out in Haymarket here! I just wanted to say Hi to everyone and let you know I'm available as a free resource for any Nova Jeeper as you're looking to build or upgrade your Jeep (even if you don't buy from us) in the future. I love educating consumers about Jeep upgrades and I can talk for hours about it. Just ask my wife. lol Also - Most of us shop owners are friendly with one another and refer business back and forth so if we can't do it, I'm always happy to refer folks to someone that can. I just referred someone over to Tom at Dirt Nerds today for a project that I just didn't have the resources to do internally at my shop for example.

We are also assembling our monthly wheeling trips for our customers so if you're a customer in our database, be sure to join our Bull Run 4x4 Offroad Club FB page (we do cross reference requests with our CRM to make sure you are in fact a customer) so you get invites to our trips on a monthly basis. If you're not a customer and want to come out with us... well you know what to do! We're happy to bring you into the Bull Run family.

I get a lot of questions about my personal Jeep so here's a few shots of it. It's a 2012 JKU Rubicon on ton tons with a GenRight roll cage. I have a 40 spline SuperDuty 60 front axle with 1550 Branik u-joints and chromoly 40 spline (inner and outer) axle shafts and also a GM 14 Bolt rear axle that's been converted to 40 spline shafts with an ARB locker out back. It's sitting on 43" Mickey Thompson Baja Pro X sticky tires and Raceline Monster 233 beadlocks. I run Adams Driveshafts in it since we're an Adams dealer which have proven to be bullet proof. The lift is an EVO MFG high clearance long-arm kit with Metalcloak 5.5" springs with their Rocksport shocks. The plan is to upgrade to King coilovers this summer when I do my 6.2 LS swap. It has Poison Spyder tube fenders that are paint matched along with their rock sliders and MetalCloak Undercloak skids. It will tackle just about anything I throw at it.

Anyway, feel free to ping me if you have any questions about your build or are just looking for guidance or ideas. I'm always happy to talk Jeeps no matter what time of day it is!

Hope to meet some more Nova Jeepers soon!

277563541_1928528587336844_197239531319411207_n.jpg


187399820_1695182080671497_3563323770785165296_n.jpg


245282754_10216971387311903_7302158569706889759_n.jpg
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Hello Mike.
I'm looking to ditch the stock drive shafts and looking for some advice/insight for my 2017 jkur with 2.5 Metalcloak lift, 3.73 gearing and 35" tires.
According to Adams website the 1310 will handle up to 35" tires which seems like a pretty broad statement considering all the different gear ratios there are. When looking into it on Tom Woods site they have charts that show with the stock gearing and 35s, 1310s are not strong enough and i should use 1350s.
Are the 1310s strong enough or will i be replacing u joints all the time? I dont mind a break once in a blue moon as the weak link when i do something stupid. I think i would rather change a u joint than break something in the transfer case or axle or transmission.
What are your thoughts and experiences on this matter?
Thanks.
 
JustOnlyME said:
Hello Mike.
I'm looking to ditch the stock drive shafts and looking for some advice/insight for my 2017 jkur with 2.5 Metalcloak lift, 3.73 gearing and 35" tires.
According to Adams website the 1310 will handle up to 35" tires which seems like a pretty broad statement considering all the different gear ratios there are. When looking into it on Tom Woods site they have charts that show with the stock gearing and 35s, 1310s are not strong enough and i should use 1350s.
Are the 1310s strong enough or will i be replacing u joints all the time? I dont mind a break once in a blue moon as the weak link when i do something stupid. I think i would rather change a u joint than break something in the transfer case or axle or transmission.
What are your thoughts and experiences on this matter?
Thanks.
Click to expand...
I’m always in the camp that bigger is better. Having said that there are few things to consider. A 1310 u joint will allow a bit more operating angle than a 1350 joint but if you’re in a JKUR, you’ll have fairly long front and rear driveshafts compared to a TJ rear driveshaft which would benefit greatly from a 1310 u joint with a bigger operating angle. On my Jeep I run a 1350 joint in the front Adams driveshaft and a 1410 u joint in the rear shaft.

There are several schools of thought on weak links of the drivetrain too.

Some will argue they want the weak link to be the u joint since they are cheap and easy to replace if you happen to break one vs breaking a transfer case or a ring and pinion which would be much more costly to repair.

Others will argue that they want a bullet proof drive train so they want the stronger u joint to obtain their goal.

Your gearing will also play a big part in this decision too. If you are running stock gears now and upgrade to a 4.56 or a deeper gear set for larger tires later, the force that the u joint will see will increase as the gear set gets deeper to match the larger tire size.

On the JK’s with stock axles, I’m a fan of a 1310 u joint in the front and a 1350 shaft in the back. I would prefer to break a $25 u joint than blow up a ring and pinion in a D30 or Rubicon D44.

If you are going to run 37’s or larger tires and re-gear, I’d be doing 1350’s all the way around and factor in some chromoly axle shafts or RCVs for the front. You may also have to clearance part of the shift linkage on the NP241OR t-case to get the larger CV of the 1350 shaft to fit correctly in the front of the Jeep. We’ve had to do a few like that in the past.

We keep the Adams 1310 JK shafts in stock at the shop so if you want one without having to wait, come out and scoop one up. We don’t stock the 1350’s almost everyone typically does the 1310 up front and 1350 in the rear.
 
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Hi Mike, I’m looking to regear my TJ soon to 4.56. Do you have a roundabout estimate on how much it costs? I’ve done regearing on a JK but that was years ago and I don’t know current pricing.

Also, it won’t be offroaded anymore. It’s strictly a beach cruiser so recommendations on alternatives would work too. I’ve halfway been considering finding used axles with 4.11s already installed.
 
Welcome aboard Mike. Great to see you and really appreciate you jumping in here. Nothing but great things to say about your team and the work you have done on my Jeep.
 
osiris said:
Hi Mike, I’m looking to regear my TJ soon to 4.56. Do you have a roundabout estimate on how much it costs? I’ve done regearing on a JK but that was years ago and I don’t know current pricing.

Also, it won’t be offroaded anymore. It’s strictly a beach cruiser so recommendations on alternatives would work too. I’ve halfway been considering finding used axles with 4.11s already installed.
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Please send us a message via our website Estimate Request form online and I'll send one over to you today. I am not allowed per my MAP policies with my vendors to give out pricing on social media or forums. Happy to get you an estimate out today!

CallBack | Bull Run 4x4, Inc.

www.bullrun4x4.com www.bullrun4x4.com
 
jdavis2nd said:
I've wheeled with Mike many times and spent a ton of money at the shop. Great team at BR4x4 and wouldn't hesitate to recommend them to anyone looking to get work done on their rig.
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Thanks John, speaking of wheeling... when we going again? I don't think I've seen you out since the AOAA trip!
 
Mike and the good folks at Bull Run 4x4 did a fantastic job building my 2018 JLU into a very capable rock crawling rig. While a lot of money was spent on the build, I am confident Mike’s solid advice saved a lot of money and avoided mechanical failures. The Bull Run advice, products and workmanship are top notch. So glad I found the shop to complete my Jeep’s transformation.
 
Hello there! I've heard nothing but good things about BR4x4. I've got a carb'd AMC 258 that says "we have a new pope" a bit too often for my tastes. Put in new valve stem seals, but it's really the valve guides that are plain tired. Going to do a leak down test this weekend to see how the rings are. What machine shops do you recommend for a head rebuild (I'm in Herndon, but not averse to a drive). Thanks!
 
pencilrunner said:
Hello there! I've heard nothing but good things about BR4x4. I've got a carb'd AMC 258 that says "we have a new pope" a bit too often for my tastes. Put in new valve stem seals, but it's really the valve guides that are plain tired. Going to do a leak down test this weekend to see how the rings are. What machine shops do you recommend for a head rebuild (I'm in Herndon, but not averse to a drive). Thanks!
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Sorry for the late response. This is something outside of our wheelhouse and not what we do at our shop. We focus on the 97+ newer Jeeps (fuel injection only) and we don't do motor work unless its an LS swap or a Magnuson Supercharger installation on a 3.6L as that's the extent of our employee's skillsets. I would ask John from OCD Offroad about your carb application and get some pointers from him as he has way more experience than we do in the vintage Jeeps and carb-fed motors.
 
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