Okay, so riddle me this. Right now with my '03 TJ the radio will lose power completely, like the time won't even show. If I push the key in further, radio comes back on! Going down the road, hit a bump, radio goes off. Push key in further, comes back on. How do I correct it?
I'd place my bets on a worn key or ignition cylinder. Not to be confused with the ignition switch, the actual cylinder.
First step is to use your spare key, if you have one, as it will be less worn. If all your keys are worn, taking it to a locksmith should allow them to cut it by code (1-4-3-2-5-6, etc.) from looking at the old key. Cutting by code is better than copying the old key because copying a worn out key gives you a new worn out key. If it doesn't act up, you know that the tumblers in the cylinder are good, and you don't need to remove the cylinder and have it re-keyed. Just make another copy of your spare, and you're good.
It is likely a worn cylinder however, given age, and this issue for whatever reason seems to plague '03 models moreso than others - probably some small design or part change for the MY. When the tumblers wear the cylinder will allow the key to slide out far enough to not press the detent pin, which provides power to the radio via the ignition switch. Based on connectors and pin detents, the radio is the first to get goofy when the key slides out. This is why the radio works, then gets jostled "loose" with a bump, and works again when you push it in a bit further.
Fix is to buy a new ignition cylinder ($10-$20) and have it rekeyed to match your current key ($20) by a locksmith. Gotta go to an actual locksmith, HD/Lowes/Ace etc won't offer this. Dorman makes a replacement cylinder that you can re-tumble/key yourself, but is a bit more expensive than "set" cylinders ($40-60 compared to $20-30). There is some overlap in the cost of the two methods, but I've found going to a locksmith to be preferable to get their expertise and not have to go searching for tumblers when the little springs pop them out and send parts across the room... or into your eyeball (I tend to forget to use my safety squints when working with spring loaded small items at close range, personally...). Rekeying the cylinder is definitely key (hah - see what I did there?!?!?) to not having the frustration of two keys - one for the doors, one for the ignition. I know Jeff W has served as the NovaJ Locksmith before, and lives out your way, he may be able to get ya done.
If Jeff or a locksmith are too hard to coordinate with, there are other options like "codable" cylinders, but these cost more than a regular cylinder and rekey:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/.../2328/automotive-suv-2003-jeep-wrangler?pos=2. Put the old key in (preferably least-worn one), turn the cylinder back and forth, and you're coded.
Oh dang, maybe Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-924-7...locphy=9007552&hvtargid=pla-568671711566&th=1
Steps for removing the cylinder:
If you have sentry key and want to get fresh keys cut:
- I'd suggest asking the locksmith to cut the new keys by code, not by copying.
- You'll need two old keys. The SKIM module can be programmed by the owner, but requires two keys to code additional ones. This is a security measure that keeps things like valets (or maybe that teenager who likes to sneak out) from being able to cut and code a new key from a single original. The SKIM can be programmed 8 times/to 8 keys. More than this requires a trip to the dealer to clear programming.
- Process for programming the new senty key into the SKIM:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/skis-skim-sentry-key-programming.16848/.
There's a small chance that it is related to the wiring harness/pigtail connector that connects to the cylinder, but it's 50:1 the cylinder itself.