Additional Low End Torque for JT/JL 3.6L

M

MusketStyle

So I have a manual JT sport. It's stock and the absence of low end torque is frightening. Anyone got any good suggestions for large gains on low end torque? It begs to stall in reverse and the idea of going to 35s without serious gearing changes is holding me back.

Really want a significant bump in torque in the 1,800-2,500 range.

Looking for ideas that are under $1,000

Thanks

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MusketStyle said:
So I have a manual JT sport. It's stock and the absence of low end torque is frightening. Anyone got any good suggestions for large gains on low end torque? It begs to stall in reverse and the idea of going to 35s without serious gearing changes is holding me back.

Really want a significant bump in torque in the 1,800-2,500 range.

Looking for ideas that are under $1,000

Thanks

Sent from my moto g stylus 5G using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
The little short stroke V6 is not know as a torque motor. To get a significant bump is going to cost more than a grand. One idea is to unlock the ECM and find a dyno tuner. Timing and fueling will help some. There are a couple good super charger choices, but those are a bit more than a $1000.

Gearing is your best bet, but that will be double your budget. I run 4.88 with my 6speeder... Rpm is your friend with the 3.6. this is the main reason I am swapping my manual for an 8 speed.
 
R3 said:
The little short stroke V6 is not know as a torque motor. To get a significant bump is going to cost more than a grand. One idea is to unlock the ECM and find a dyno tuner. Timing and fueling will help some. There are a couple good super charger choices, but those are a bit more than a $1000.

Gearing is your best bet, but that will be double your budget. I run 4.88 with my 6speeder... Rpm is your friend with the 3.6. this is the main reason I am swapping my manual for an 8 speed.
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It feels like they intentionally made the 6 spd suck... It's a shame because they gave it a great first gear. But the engine just feels like it's been neutered. And I can't imagine how bad the wrangler is with less than 3.73 gears.

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The JL/JT manual is a 4 speed with two over drives....so yes the ratios are a little wanting. Sprinter makes a nice low end super. But it is 6-7k. Magnuson also has a great product....again 7k.
 
The JL/JT manual is a 4 speed with two over drives....so yes the ratios are a little wanting. Sprintex makes a nice low end super. But it is 6-7k. Magnuson also has a great product....again 7k. Also manual trans tuning is intentionally softer since folks today can't drive a stick and parts are not as robust as they were back in the day.
 
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R3 said:
The JL/JT manual is a 4 speed with two over drives....so yes the ratios are a little wanting. Sprinter makes a nice low end super. But it is 6-7k. Magnuson also has a great product....again 7k. Also manual trans tuning is intentionally softer since folks today can't drive a stick and parts are not as robust as they were back in the day.
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Any improvement with off the shelf tuners? Sadly they kill warranties I'm sure.

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Yeah, I prefer the way my 1985 CJ clutch feels with my 304. Not an impressive engine by any means but everything feels better and I never stall it.

It's rough trying not to stall the gladiator in reverse ESPECIALLY with a trailer attached.

Wondering if a pedal commander would be worthwhile.

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I installed a knockoff pedal commander. I did not notice any gains as it relates to the reverse issue (I feel your pain there). Where I did notice an improvement was the long lull in the "middle" of the skinny pedal travel. It significantly improved that seemingly dead space between the initial gas pedal engagement and having it all the way to the floor. I do run 35's on 3.73's with the manual and I do have the computer adjusted for the tire size.
 
Off the shelf tuners do not kill a warranty. Check the Magnuson act. Yes a stack or plug in tuner will help throttle response. I have a stack on tuner on R3. In the tow mode the response from1800 to 2500 is much better than stock. This is by no means impressive, but there is a different. In seat of the pants feel.
 
Going bigger with tires really requires gearing with these low torque motors.
 
MusketStyle said:
Yeah, I prefer the way my 1985 CJ clutch feels with my 304. Not an impressive engine by any means but everything feels better and I never stall it.

It's rough trying not to stall the gladiator in reverse ESPECIALLY with a trailer attached.

Wondering if a pedal commander would be worthwhile.

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Click to expand...
2 extra(?) Cylinders and 2 liters more motor will do wonders for torque. Loved my old 304... Stroked with a 360 crank and some performance pistons....really woke it up and still made nice tractor like power.
 
R3 said:
Going bigger with tires really requires gearing with these low torque motors.
Click to expand...
That makes me so sad because the cost is so high. I do go wheeling quite a bit in my CJ with the gladiator as a long term potential wheeler when the CJ just isn't fun anymore. So if I'm gonna re gear, I'm gonna go to 4.88 or 5.13 and lockers.... Right now I'm looking at $6k for that bag of tricks...

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itsalwayssunny said:
I installed a knockoff pedal commander. I did not notice any gains as it relates to the reverse issue (I feel your pain there). Where I did notice an improvement was the long lull in the "middle" of the skinny pedal travel. It significantly improved that seemingly dead space between the initial gas pedal engagement and having it all the way to the floor. I do run 35's on 3.73's with the manual and I do have the computer adjusted for the tire size.
Click to expand...
How much of a dog is it on 35s with the manual? I occasionally pull a 4000lb trailer, is that just a no go?

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R3 said:
2 extra(?) Cylinders and 2 liters more motor will do wonders for torque. Loved my old 304... Stroked with a 360 crank and some performance pistons....really woke it up and still made nice tractor like power.
Click to expand...
Yeah it's a great low end motor compared to the 3.6L lol. I went looking for a 360 motor/crank at the time I built it. Couldn't find one.

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I have a little 700# trailer....under 60 mph driving is ok. Hills are a down shift or two. I can imagine trying to.tow 4k behind one of these rigs
 
R3 said:
I have a little 700# trailer....under 60 mph driving is ok. Hills are a down shift or two. I can imagine trying to.tow 4k behind one of these rigs
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I did 6k up afton mt on back roads.... I've done a lot of stupid and terrifying things in vehicles.... That is at the top of list for sure of bad ideas.

1st gear wound out for probably 5-10 minutes getting up switchbacks. Thought I was going to have to put it in low range.

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R3 said:
I have a little 700# trailer....under 60 mph driving is ok. Hills are a down shift or two. I can imagine trying to.tow 4k behind one of these rigs
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It does fine honestly with 2500-3500lbs. Never get to 6th but road manners and brakes and stability are great. Trailer has brakes.

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I find the 3.6 runs pretty strong around 4500rpm...twin overhead cams and 4 valves per rpm is it friend....not bad for an old Mec design.
 
R3 said:
I find the 3.6 runs pretty strong around 4500rpm...twin overhead cams and 4 valves per rpm is it friend....not bad for an old Mec design.
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That's where I was climbing the mountain. It was really solid, no heat up issues AT ALL. I was actually really impressed by that. But I hate running a motor at 4500rpm for more than a few seconds, let alone minutes.

This is my first v6, I've always had V8s.

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Maybe trade it in for the diesel option? But then you would lose the manual function.
 
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